Out to Dinner, Stop 2: Charleston, SC

December 9, 2008 | By | Comments (6)

Cochon
(Photo by Jennifer V. Cole)

Anyone who has read any of my Tales from the Road posts has surely picked up on a theme. From nostalgic musings on bacon grease to recounting a muddy afternoon spent with feisty pigs in a North Carolina pigsty to my ode to Donald Link’s Cochon restaurant–when it comes to pork, I’m like a kid in a candy store. Sometimes I even hear angels.

When I found out that Aaron Deal put a new dish on his lunch menu at Tristan that celebrates pork belly, I had to make a pilgrimage. I don’t mean to be sacrilegious, but let’s just say I was moved by the porcine spirit.

Chef Deal, a 26-year-old native of Morganton, North Carolina, and a graduate of Johnson & Wales, might be the youngest executive chef in Charleston, South Carolina, a town ripe with culinary talent, but you’d never know it. Lawd have mercy, that boy can cook.

The Dish

Pork belly with heirloom baked beans–at first glance it seems so simple, like a riff on a backyard barbecue. And yet, as you dig in, you discover a harmonious complexity. The pork belly, cooked for six hours at 250 degrees, is delightfully tender, with a thin ribbon of smile-inducing fat that melts into each bite. The beans, Heirloom Red Brick Beans that date back to the late 18th century, come fresh from the Chef’s Garden (a sustainable farm in Ohio that provides niche and specialty greens and vegetables to discerning chefs across the country). These beans are cooked for eight hours (yes, eight) with orange zest, bacon (giddy up!), shallots, blackstrap molasses, orange juice, and Tristan turnips (a turnip grown by the Chef’s Garden especially for Deal’s restaurant). The result? A mahogany and white medley with a toothsome firmness, almost al dente, that marries a nutty earthiness and a sweet zing, with just enough sauce to encourage you to twirl chunks of pork belly around the bottom of the plate. And it’s all topped off with a drizzle of Blis bourbon barrel-aged maple syrup.

Pork belly, bacon, bourbon–three of my favorite things in one dish. It’s almost like this dish was created with me in mind. Did I mention those angels?

Tristan  55 S. Market Street, Charleston, South Carolina 29401; (843) 534-2155; www.tristandining.com

COMMENTS

  1. Sarah O’Kelley

    If you are back in Charleston you have to visit the Glass Onion and have their Crispy Braised Pork Belly with Grits and Greens or have it at Saturday brunch with grits and two farm eggs!

    January 11, 2010 at 7:21 pm
  2. Oscar Thibidoux

    I can already smell it. I hope that they have a video on how to make this.

    December 12, 2008 at 4:31 pm
  3. AJ

    Do they have a kosher variety?

    August 26, 2008 at 10:24 am
  4. Jeremy

    sounds amazing…but how does it compare to his granola?

    August 25, 2008 at 3:22 pm
  5. Jennifer’s Ti Ti

    Jen, I know that you are just waiting for a time to invite me on one of your sojourns. I remember special meals in France that you chose for us. I did tell you not to tell me what I was eating and if I said, “No”, that meant not to tell me nor order it again. When I returned home from that trip, I was amazed at the various ways that you fed me pigeon. When I said,, “Jennifer!”, you replied, “Ti Ti, they are not the ones that you see on the streets.” I know that you will also have an unknown food surprise for me, but again–don’t tell me what I am eating. Love your article, Jen. Ti Ti

    August 24, 2008 at 4:22 pm
  6. Matt

    Goodness gracious. Not too long ago when I was still in school up in the Windy City, I never would have imagined that pork belly could sound (and look) so good.
    Bravo (and giddy up).

    August 24, 2008 at 9:52 am

Leave a Comment

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s