At Reef in Houston, chef Bryan Caswell has built a career working with Gulf fishermen, most notably by developing a menu that makes the most of bycatch—fish caught by accident when going after specific seafood (reefhouston.com).
In Charleston, chef Mike Lata is set to open The Ordinary in just a few weeks. You might call the dazzling space (white oak floors, 25-foot ceilings, marble counters) an oyster bar, but you’d be missing the point. The Ordinary is really rooted in Charleston’s “merroir” (the idea of terroir at sea) and is the product of Mike’s relationships with folks like oysterman “Clammer Dave,” crabber Kimberly, and fisherman Mark Marhefka (who brings in bycatch that Mike transforms), often finding a new local delicacy like rudderfish. “When you come to Charleston and eat seafood from our waters, you’ll taste that sense of place,” Mike says (eattheordinary.com).